- [Narrator] Cashmere is one of the most |
sought-after fibers in the world. |
Its fine hairs are softer, lighter |
and can be up to three times more insulating |
than sheep wool. |
It's been a prized material for centuries, |
but its quality comes at a cost, |
and a luxury cashmere jumper could cost you |
well over $500. |
So why is it so expensive? |
Cashmere doesn't come from a sheep |
like you might think, but from the cashmere goat. |
These goats are found across the Himalayas |
where temperatures can drop to minus 30 degrees, |
and their freezing cold habitat |
means they grow an incredibly thick, warm coat. |
It's not the outer hair you can see |
that's used for making garments, |
but the super soft coat just underneath it. |
Johnstons of Elgin has been making cashmere |
products since 1851, and to do that, |
they need a lot of goats. |
- We are using the cashmere from about 1.2 million goats, |
and those goats are spread right over Outer Mongolia, |
China, a little bit in Afghanistan as well. |
- [Narrator] There's a reason so many goats are needed. |
While a sheep can produce at least three kilos |
of wool each year, a cashmere goat |
will only give you around 200 grams. |
- So basically, this much cashmere from every goat. |
For a scarf, we could be working with |
the production of a single goat, |
but for a jumper, for example, |
you could be working with five, eight, |
10 goats' worth of cashmere. |
- [Narrator] Because of the tiny amount each goat produces, |
the supply is severely limited, |
and the fibers can only be collected once a year. |
While sheep are sheared for their wool, |
cashmere goats are usually brushed |
to remove the soft hairs that molt in the spring. |
Even when you've harvested the fibers, |
the usable weight halves once it's been stripped |
of grease, dirt, and thicker hairs. |
And despite its popularity, |
cashmere still only makes up 0.5% |
of the world's total wool production. |
Once you have the pure cashmere, |
processing it takes a lot of work. |
The fibers are first dyed to the right color |
and aerated to stop them clumping together. |
Cashmere softness means that it needs to be treated |
delicately throughout the whole process. |
Any chemicals or overprocessing will damage the fibers. |
The fibers are then carded, |
a process that detangles and lines up the hairs |
in thin sheets so that they can be spun into a yarn. |
The quality of cashmere is graded on its fineness |
and its length, and a high-quality individual |
cashmere hair can be as thin as 14 micrometers. |
When it's finally ready, this dyed and spun yarn |
can then be used to make everything |
from jumpers to scarves. |
- When you're making a cashmere scarf, |
everybody thinks this is the most simple |
product in the world. |
And of course, when they come to the mill |
and they see how it's actually done, |
they realize actually there's a huge amount to it, |
and there's an awful lot of hands and skilled work |
that goes into making that possible. |
So it is absolutely about the knowledge of the people, |
about the skills of the people, |
how you nurture this really delicate fiber |
through the process. |
- [Narrator] Cheaper cashmere products |
have become hugely popular recently. |
These claim to offer the quality of cashmere |
for a lower price. |
Some may use a slightly lower grade of cashmere |
or different processing methods |
to make the end result more affordable, |
and while they are comparatively cheap, |
they're still usually at least twice the price of wool. |
There have been extreme cases of mislabeling, too, |
and some supposedly 100% cashmere products |
have been found to contain yak hair or even rat fur. |
If you do find a really cheap product |
that claims to be cashmere, |
it may be too good to be true. |
- There is nothing in the world like cashmere. |
I mean, there are other precious fibers |
or other fine fibers, but cashmere has great properties. |
It's very strong. It is very warm. |
It's very soft, and you can make from it |
anything from a very thick, robust, |
almost rug-like product through to |
very fine, wispy, cloud-like, |
very, very subtle pieces. |
There are other precious fibers out there, |
there are other fibers that are as fine, |
but we can't do as much with them. |